Hill Country Gardener's personal insights about learned lessons while gardening in the Texas Hill Country:
Please note, the information below is provided as ideas and learned insights on what has worked for Hill Country Gardener over the years. I do update this page as time permits - lets face it, we should always be open to learning and expanding our gardening knowledge base. The information provided herein is not a guarantee that the conditions in your yard/garden and/or with your plants will be similar.
Let me start by saying the Texas Hill Country (around the Highland Lakes) is in a split or multi-divided/layerd planting and plant growing zone; we experience some very long hot Summers and are known to have some very cold extended Winter nights and days... (not to be forgotten, the abundance of wildlife and/or insects that loves to sample whatever we plant) - all this just makes for a greater challenge to garden in this area we call Texas Hill Country/home!
Spring (Mid March - April):
Set out/plant springtime annuals, new perennials, frost hardy flowers and early bulbs; prepare roses for the growing season (I recommend not to use high nitrogen fertilizers as a general rule; specifically it is recommended that you do not use chemically produced fertilizers with high nitrogen prior to Easter in the Texas Hill Country (plants are more suspect able to severe freeze damage during cold temperatures when high nitrogen fertilizers are used).
* Liquid Fertilize new plants (I like “Medina Has-to-Grow” or Liquid Seaweed with a hormone mixed in (I add Super Thrive) and/or add bone meal (also consider an organic dry fertilizer (like “Lady Bug” 8-2-4) to bulb beds and Iris rhizomes for beautiful early spring flowers. Be cautious on putting on synthetic fertilizers too early (before the last frost) as the fertilizer will cause a lot of nitrogen to release into the plant very quickly and a late freeze will do significant damage and actually set the plants back a month or more. Organic fertilizers typically are slow released and are less likely to have the high nitrogen effect or surge in the plants. I have personally seen where the use of organic fertilizers and good composting and mulching techniques (over time) will create a much better bloom production than synthetic fertilizers.
"Be sure to add fertilizer around your Amaryllis plants for beautiful blooms in May."
* Trim and clean up plants and flowerbeds, add mulch and prepare garden for planting
* After Mid-March/last freeze, begin uncovering your heavily mulched and covered plants and flower pots that were protected during the winter months. "Good rule of thumb for setting out temperature-sensitive plants is to wait till after the Mesquite or Pecan trees begin to bloom." Local farmers will tell you to wait till after Easter.
* Seasonal field-grass trimming for wildflower fields (March).
Easter is typically the time for our first Hill Country lawn Fertilizing – be sure per-emergent is on now too (typically apply in mid February). Do not over water the lawn and keep the grass cut at a low setting to help prevent fungus growth (wait till the nights stay above 70 degrees before raising the mower decks). .
Keep the “DEER OUT” on hand to protect new plant growth from the hungry deer in your neighborhood. This product has been doing great in the Hill Country Gardener flowerbeds! I have been fortunate to find Backbone Valley Nursery (contact details in Useful Links) as a supplier of this “Deer Out” product. One spray can last over 60 days – writing on the bottle actually says “It won't wash off”. And product actually does not Stink to humans!
Add a sandy-mulch-turkey-compost mix to grassy yards (and for sod leveling) - will promote the development of better grass roots resulting and richer, greener grass from the natural compost and high nutrient levels. Remember compost or leveling on either Bermuda or St. Augustine lawns should be .5 - .75 inches thick per treatment. Spreading a good lawn pre-emergent on the lawn in the early spring will help reduce the production of new weeds in the yard too. Depending on grass type and area you live there are some great organic per-emergent to fight weeds. Be very cautious on utilizing any WEED and FEED fertilizers as they contain chemicals that will kill most trees, plants and shrubs (regardless of the age of the tree). Atrozine is what is used in many weed and feed fertilizers and is being banned in many areas due to its toxicity on animals, trees and humans.
This is the recommended time to start planting Zinnia seeds, Gladiolas and Dahlias in order to provide for your cutting/indoor arrangements in the summer months. It is a good idea to separate plantings by 2 to 4 week intervals of to ensure a steady supply of blooms for flower arrangements. Rose bushes can be safely planted in this season. The cooler and usually damper spring weather will help the rose bushes develop a stronger root system, which will aid them in surviving through the summer heat and droughts. Other cold hearty shrubs can also be set out.
NOTE: This is usually the time the Cyclamen and Pansies will begin to die back. Pulling out pansies is usually the best approach as I have not had much luck with them returning the next year. However, Cyclamen will typically die off with the warmer temps and sunnier days and then return again around November (if they are left to go to seed and go dormant).
Summer (May - early June):
* Remove early Spring flowers that have gone by and set out/plant summer flowers, Perennials, bulbs and bushes
* Weed plant beds, trim off dried stems and leaves, mulch to conserve watering requirements.
Depending on the health of your lawn/soil, Memorial Day is the Second seasonal lawn fertilization. Again, the organic fertilizer is best as it helps build up your soils vs. just flushing it with lots of nitrogen.
Be sure to trim the old blooms off the Azaleas to allow for next years buds to start their growth ad extra mulch around the base to keep moisture through the dry summer ( is a good rule to be completed prior to June 1).
* Trim plants and deadhead new growth for full healthy plants
* Liquid Fertilize, Fish emulsion, bone meal or another dusting of organic fertilizer as needed
* Mark Iris blossom types/colors (on the plants leaves) to assure proper identification when splitting in fall.
"Try to resist trimming your wild flower seeds to early - should wait till after Indian Blankets, Texas Star's and daisies have bloomed and gone to seed. Too early of the field cutting will reduce the next years flowers."
Late June to Early July (July 4th) is the time for our next lawn Fertilizing. Typically by now we can increase the watering cycles and raise the mower decks for the lush green St. Augustine lawns.
Once the nights begin to stay over 75 degrees you can adjust your irrigation run times to water at night. If you are watering at night with cooler temperatures(below 75) the likelihood of developing a brown patch fungus (especially in St. Augistine lawns) is very likely.
Late summer revival (July and August):
* Re-mulch plants beds (as needed)
* Liquid Fertilize plants (Medina Has to Grow or Liquid Seaweed are good organic fertilizers) Add a splash of Super Thrive to your fertilizer mix for a great hormone boost to your plants). The Hormone and Liquid Seaweed mix are great for your plants as an in between fertilizing treatment. Also this is a great time to encourage root growth - mix in some good Organic Root Stimulator with your feeding routine. If you utilize a lot of fish emulsion now is when the Armadillos, skunks and racoons will really tear up your yard, so you may want to consider some alternatives or do some additional spraying to dilute the fish smells. Composting around trees and Acid treatments for Acid loving plants good to do now (especially since we usually crank up the irrigation run times to adjust for the heat. Watch for yellowing as there may need to be some Iron added to some of your shrubs and lawn too - cutting back a bit on watering would be helpful if you are getting a lot of yellowing. Decomposed pine bark and Cotton Burr are great organic acidifies; putting a good layer of this down with a layer of Texas Hardwood mulch will help keep the Pine bark or Cotton burr in place vs. floating when/if we get a hard summer shower.
* Weed plant beds, trim off dried stems and leaves - this is a great time to do some mid season trimming of Salvia, Lantana and other strong growing summer plants.
* Check the plants for summer insects and fungus If your lantanna is not blooming look for aphids. A good treatment of Ivory Dish soap will often do the trick (be sure to lift the leaves and spray the entire plant and soil. Multiple treatments will be necessary... but do not spray this when the plant is in full sun as it can damage the foliage. Spinosad or Neem oil are other great organic pesticides.
"This is a great time for trimming bushes, and trees (on colder days). Also this is a good (usually rainy) time for planting new trees and large bushes. " When choosing large trees/shrubs realize there are at least three methods for growing/selling trees - bagged, containerized, and container grown. Bagged and Containerized are typically trees/shrubs that are grown in the ground and then dug up for bagging or containerizing. Container grown are grown in plastic pots and transplanted into larger pots as they grow. Both methods have believers of which they believe is best. I personally recommend the container grown as you are getting all the roots. Some feel container grown trees are prone to become root bound because the roots are always growing in a container.
January - February (into early March):
* Field trimming for better viewing of wild flowers
* Assure outside plants are protected from frost/cold North winds
* Trim Crape Myrtles. "Please do not top out your Crape Myrtles!" Dead heading the old blooms will help ensure more blooms next summer.
* Trim out some of the small spindly branches on the Crape Myrtle, and help the shrub become a healthier taller tree. A good plan on trimming is to try to cut out branches that rub on another, as well as branches that are hanging on or too near the house, roof, gutters or blocking walk ways and drives.
"Cut back Tea, Grandma, and wild rose bushes - being sure to add a liquid glue to the ends to help prevent stem splitting and also keep bugs from boring into the exposed stocks" Typically January and February are the coldest months in the Hill Country and affords the tea roses the next two months of rest before the warm weather will really make them shoot up. Cutting the tea roses back to about 8 – 10” (saving the main canes and cutting out the smaller or dead canes). Be cautious about over mulching over the top of the cut canes if the irrigation systems are remaining on – you do not want the canes to remain damp or encourage mildew/fungus growth – or you might be fighting black spot next year!
The Knock Out Roses should only be trimmed for shape – not cut back to the ground. Clean out the excessive spindly branches under and inner growth, plus any dead or spindly canes within the shrub bush. Allowing ample air into the bush will help assure a happy Rose bush in Spring.
Let me start by saying the Texas Hill Country (around the Highland Lakes) is in a split or multi-divided/layerd planting and plant growing zone; we experience some very long hot Summers and are known to have some very cold extended Winter nights and days... (not to be forgotten, the abundance of wildlife and/or insects that loves to sample whatever we plant) - all this just makes for a greater challenge to garden in this area we call Texas Hill Country/home!
Spring (Mid March - April):
Set out/plant springtime annuals, new perennials, frost hardy flowers and early bulbs; prepare roses for the growing season (I recommend not to use high nitrogen fertilizers as a general rule; specifically it is recommended that you do not use chemically produced fertilizers with high nitrogen prior to Easter in the Texas Hill Country (plants are more suspect able to severe freeze damage during cold temperatures when high nitrogen fertilizers are used).
* Liquid Fertilize new plants (I like “Medina Has-to-Grow” or Liquid Seaweed with a hormone mixed in (I add Super Thrive) and/or add bone meal (also consider an organic dry fertilizer (like “Lady Bug” 8-2-4) to bulb beds and Iris rhizomes for beautiful early spring flowers. Be cautious on putting on synthetic fertilizers too early (before the last frost) as the fertilizer will cause a lot of nitrogen to release into the plant very quickly and a late freeze will do significant damage and actually set the plants back a month or more. Organic fertilizers typically are slow released and are less likely to have the high nitrogen effect or surge in the plants. I have personally seen where the use of organic fertilizers and good composting and mulching techniques (over time) will create a much better bloom production than synthetic fertilizers.
"Be sure to add fertilizer around your Amaryllis plants for beautiful blooms in May."
* Trim and clean up plants and flowerbeds, add mulch and prepare garden for planting
* After Mid-March/last freeze, begin uncovering your heavily mulched and covered plants and flower pots that were protected during the winter months. "Good rule of thumb for setting out temperature-sensitive plants is to wait till after the Mesquite or Pecan trees begin to bloom." Local farmers will tell you to wait till after Easter.
* Seasonal field-grass trimming for wildflower fields (March).
Easter is typically the time for our first Hill Country lawn Fertilizing – be sure per-emergent is on now too (typically apply in mid February). Do not over water the lawn and keep the grass cut at a low setting to help prevent fungus growth (wait till the nights stay above 70 degrees before raising the mower decks). .
Keep the “DEER OUT” on hand to protect new plant growth from the hungry deer in your neighborhood. This product has been doing great in the Hill Country Gardener flowerbeds! I have been fortunate to find Backbone Valley Nursery (contact details in Useful Links) as a supplier of this “Deer Out” product. One spray can last over 60 days – writing on the bottle actually says “It won't wash off”. And product actually does not Stink to humans!
Add a sandy-mulch-turkey-compost mix to grassy yards (and for sod leveling) - will promote the development of better grass roots resulting and richer, greener grass from the natural compost and high nutrient levels. Remember compost or leveling on either Bermuda or St. Augustine lawns should be .5 - .75 inches thick per treatment. Spreading a good lawn pre-emergent on the lawn in the early spring will help reduce the production of new weeds in the yard too. Depending on grass type and area you live there are some great organic per-emergent to fight weeds. Be very cautious on utilizing any WEED and FEED fertilizers as they contain chemicals that will kill most trees, plants and shrubs (regardless of the age of the tree). Atrozine is what is used in many weed and feed fertilizers and is being banned in many areas due to its toxicity on animals, trees and humans.
This is the recommended time to start planting Zinnia seeds, Gladiolas and Dahlias in order to provide for your cutting/indoor arrangements in the summer months. It is a good idea to separate plantings by 2 to 4 week intervals of to ensure a steady supply of blooms for flower arrangements. Rose bushes can be safely planted in this season. The cooler and usually damper spring weather will help the rose bushes develop a stronger root system, which will aid them in surviving through the summer heat and droughts. Other cold hearty shrubs can also be set out.
NOTE: This is usually the time the Cyclamen and Pansies will begin to die back. Pulling out pansies is usually the best approach as I have not had much luck with them returning the next year. However, Cyclamen will typically die off with the warmer temps and sunnier days and then return again around November (if they are left to go to seed and go dormant).
Summer (May - early June):
* Remove early Spring flowers that have gone by and set out/plant summer flowers, Perennials, bulbs and bushes
* Weed plant beds, trim off dried stems and leaves, mulch to conserve watering requirements.
Depending on the health of your lawn/soil, Memorial Day is the Second seasonal lawn fertilization. Again, the organic fertilizer is best as it helps build up your soils vs. just flushing it with lots of nitrogen.
Be sure to trim the old blooms off the Azaleas to allow for next years buds to start their growth ad extra mulch around the base to keep moisture through the dry summer ( is a good rule to be completed prior to June 1).
* Trim plants and deadhead new growth for full healthy plants
* Liquid Fertilize, Fish emulsion, bone meal or another dusting of organic fertilizer as needed
* Mark Iris blossom types/colors (on the plants leaves) to assure proper identification when splitting in fall.
"Try to resist trimming your wild flower seeds to early - should wait till after Indian Blankets, Texas Star's and daisies have bloomed and gone to seed. Too early of the field cutting will reduce the next years flowers."
Late June to Early July (July 4th) is the time for our next lawn Fertilizing. Typically by now we can increase the watering cycles and raise the mower decks for the lush green St. Augustine lawns.
Once the nights begin to stay over 75 degrees you can adjust your irrigation run times to water at night. If you are watering at night with cooler temperatures(below 75) the likelihood of developing a brown patch fungus (especially in St. Augistine lawns) is very likely.
Late summer revival (July and August):
* Re-mulch plants beds (as needed)
* Liquid Fertilize plants (Medina Has to Grow or Liquid Seaweed are good organic fertilizers) Add a splash of Super Thrive to your fertilizer mix for a great hormone boost to your plants). The Hormone and Liquid Seaweed mix are great for your plants as an in between fertilizing treatment. Also this is a great time to encourage root growth - mix in some good Organic Root Stimulator with your feeding routine. If you utilize a lot of fish emulsion now is when the Armadillos, skunks and racoons will really tear up your yard, so you may want to consider some alternatives or do some additional spraying to dilute the fish smells. Composting around trees and Acid treatments for Acid loving plants good to do now (especially since we usually crank up the irrigation run times to adjust for the heat. Watch for yellowing as there may need to be some Iron added to some of your shrubs and lawn too - cutting back a bit on watering would be helpful if you are getting a lot of yellowing. Decomposed pine bark and Cotton Burr are great organic acidifies; putting a good layer of this down with a layer of Texas Hardwood mulch will help keep the Pine bark or Cotton burr in place vs. floating when/if we get a hard summer shower.
* Weed plant beds, trim off dried stems and leaves - this is a great time to do some mid season trimming of Salvia, Lantana and other strong growing summer plants.
* Check the plants for summer insects and fungus If your lantanna is not blooming look for aphids. A good treatment of Ivory Dish soap will often do the trick (be sure to lift the leaves and spray the entire plant and soil. Multiple treatments will be necessary... but do not spray this when the plant is in full sun as it can damage the foliage. Spinosad or Neem oil are other great organic pesticides.
- Trim plants and deadhead new growth for full healthy plants. Also to make sure the plant has not grown over the irrigation heads and blocking the sprayers.
Fall (September, October):
* Seasonal trimming and pruning of flowers and perennial plants with additional fertilizer and Hormone treatment (Super Thrive)
* Mulching, weeding, fluffing the bed to assure moisture can reach the roots, and removal of dried plant stems/leaves to assure continued late fall colors and plant hardiness
* Split the Iris rhizomes and bulb plants to propagate the plant and thin dense growth areas as needed.
- Split up and re-pot overgrown plants
Wild flower seed planting season begins mid September through October in the Hill Country. Typically want to have 10 – 15 days of damp cool weather for ideal germination of the wild flower seeds. - Shortly after Labor Day is the finial lawn fertilizing of the Season. Another good lawn Pre-Emergent treatment is recommended at this time to help prevent the growth of new weeds in your lawn – This treatment will help stop new weeds while the grass is dormant through the winter and dried seeds are blowing around with the fall/winter winds.
Also remember, that September first change your irrigation run cycle to later in the day (nights will start cooling off (below 75 at night)) or you will develop brown patch. Also this is a good time to start lowering the mower deck. If your St. Augustine roots stay damp over night you will develop brown patch (circular browning patches that almost look like large rings in the lawn).
Winterizing (November - December):
* Winter pruning of roses
* Seasonal pruning of flowers
* Mulching and protecting frost sensitive plants and bulbs, replacing with winter hardy flowering plants/grasses
* Set out/plant spring bulb plants and bushes
* Trim all plants and shrubs as needed, Mulch the ones you cut back to help protect from frost. Keep the plants moist during the winter freezes.
- Early November is a great time to start setting out the Red and White Cyclamen for the approaching holidays. As long as the irrigation systems can continue to keep these healthy little flowering gems damp, they will continue to bloom through the approaching holiday seasons/New Year.
Winter is also a good time to look at adding hard scape to your gardens... while the plants are cut back. This will allow you to consider year round interest while many of your plants may be dormant. Please be sure to consider your plant growth though... no sense spending money on insignificant hard scaping if it will be buried under plants most of the year.
- Move potted plants that are not freeze hardy and store in sheds, garage or greenhouse – These are usually our Tropical Hibiscus, Bougainvillea and many of the southern ferns or other Tropicals that light protection will not keep from dieing off or prevent blooming next year.
* Organic Fertilize and/or add bone meal to bulbs and Iris rhizomes
- Be sure to protect your Azalea around the base – too severe of a chill will prevent them from flowering in the Spring. Utilizing a good shredded pine mulch that will provide natural acid to your Azalea will help extend the life of your plants too The water and soil in the Texas Hill Country is very high in alkalinity.
"This is a great time for trimming bushes, and trees (on colder days). Also this is a good (usually rainy) time for planting new trees and large bushes. " When choosing large trees/shrubs realize there are at least three methods for growing/selling trees - bagged, containerized, and container grown. Bagged and Containerized are typically trees/shrubs that are grown in the ground and then dug up for bagging or containerizing. Container grown are grown in plastic pots and transplanted into larger pots as they grow. Both methods have believers of which they believe is best. I personally recommend the container grown as you are getting all the roots. Some feel container grown trees are prone to become root bound because the roots are always growing in a container.
January - February (into early March):
* Field trimming for better viewing of wild flowers
* Assure outside plants are protected from frost/cold North winds
* Trim Crape Myrtles. "Please do not top out your Crape Myrtles!" Dead heading the old blooms will help ensure more blooms next summer.
* Trim out some of the small spindly branches on the Crape Myrtle, and help the shrub become a healthier taller tree. A good plan on trimming is to try to cut out branches that rub on another, as well as branches that are hanging on or too near the house, roof, gutters or blocking walk ways and drives.
"Cut back Tea, Grandma, and wild rose bushes - being sure to add a liquid glue to the ends to help prevent stem splitting and also keep bugs from boring into the exposed stocks" Typically January and February are the coldest months in the Hill Country and affords the tea roses the next two months of rest before the warm weather will really make them shoot up. Cutting the tea roses back to about 8 – 10” (saving the main canes and cutting out the smaller or dead canes). Be cautious about over mulching over the top of the cut canes if the irrigation systems are remaining on – you do not want the canes to remain damp or encourage mildew/fungus growth – or you might be fighting black spot next year!
The Knock Out Roses should only be trimmed for shape – not cut back to the ground. Clean out the excessive spindly branches under and inner growth, plus any dead or spindly canes within the shrub bush. Allowing ample air into the bush will help assure a happy Rose bush in Spring.
