Hill Country Gardener

Personalized for your home and individual needs, Yard and Flower Garden design and maintenance services

A little about Hill Country Gardener:

Hill Country Gardener and hillcountrygardener.com is a sole proprietorship that is owned and operated by Matthew McCabe.  I am retired from a 20+ year Engineering and Executive Management career in Telecommunications.  I have elected to follow my passion for beautiful yards and flowers.  I have been growing plants in the central Texas area for over 20 years; and have developed a keen passion and knowledge for flowers and and plants that can help to enhance our gardens and yards.  I also have a previous life of studying painting, drawing and art that I believe affords me a unique look of plant textures and colors in the gardens.    

Maintenance Service Rates:
The current Hourly rates for weekly garden maintenance start at $65 an hour for Hill Country Gardener (Matthew or other Gardener), and $85 - $100 per hour for a two man crew (typically Matthew and 1 helper); additional changes may apply based on the extent and type of work to be performed, equipment needed and for additional personnel. We typically schedule our work between Monday and Friday (Holiday and vacation exceptions).  Some fixed bidding can be provided as time permits.  Please contact Hill Country Gardener for your special needs.  Projects requiring an extended drive time may incur a charge for mileage and drive times. 

Special services to assist clients on gardening and other yard projects are available. 

Services Can Include:

Perennial and/or a mix with annual plantings of flowerpot and flowerbed. Plants and Shrubs trimming/shaping, fertilizing, new mulch and existing bed turn over (fluffing) as well as and weeding/clean up (as well as Spring and Fall Spruce-ups). As schedules permit, Hill Country Gardener is available for some flower bed and yard revitalization projects, and also small drainage or irrigation projects. 

Service Rates Do Not Include: Expenditures for materials, planters, plants, mulch, soils, compost and fertilizers, etc.

"Mulching, composting (yards and beds), weeding and major rehab projects welcomed!"   

The following is a recommended flower garden maintenance schedule; Matt at Hill Country Gardener is prepared to help you with any or all of these tasks so that you will have more time to enjoy your beautiful garden.

Recommended Gardening Schedule:

Spring (Mid March - April):
* Set out/plant springtime annuals, new perennials, frost hardy flowers and early bulbs; prepare roses for the growing season
* Liquid Fertilize new plants (I like “Medina Has-to-Grow” with a hormone mixed in (I add SuperThrive) and/or add bone meal (also consider an organic dry fertilizer (like “Natures Guide” or “Lady Bug”) to bulb beds and Iris rhizomes for beautiful early spring flowers. Be cautious on putting out synthetic fertilizers too early (before the last frost) as the fertilizer will cause a lot of nitrogen to release into the plant very quickly and a late freeze will do significant damage and actually set the plants back a month or more. Organic fertilizers typically are slow released and are less likely to have the high nitrogen effect or surge in the plants. I have personally seen where the use of organic fertilizers and good composting and mulching techniques (over time) will create a much better bloom production than synthetic fertilizers.  

"Be sure to add fertilizer around your Amaryllis plants for beautiful blooms in May."   
* Trim and clean up plants and flowerbeds, add mulch and prepare garden for planting
* After Mid-March/last freeze, begin uncovering your heavily mulched and covered plants and flower pots that were protected during the winter months.  "Good rule of thumb for setting out temperature-sensitive plants is to wait till after the Mesquite or Pecan trees begin to bloom."
* Seasonal field-grass trimming for wildflower fields (March).

Easter is typically the time for our first Hill Country lawn Fertilizing – be sure pre-emergent is on now too. Do not over water the lawn and keep the grass cut at a low setting to help prevent fungus growth (wait till the nights stay above 70 degrees before raising the mower decks). .

Keep the “DEER OUT” on hand to protect new plant growth from the hungry deer in your neighborhood. This product has been doing great in the Hill Country Gardener flowerbeds! I have been fortunate to find Backbone Valley Nursery as a supplier of this “Deer Out” product. One spray can last over 60 days – writing on the bottle actually says “It won't was off”. And it actually does not Stink to humans!

Add a sandy-mulch-turkey-compost mix to grassy yards (and for sod leveling) - will promote the development better grass roots resulting in richer, greener grass from the natural compost and high nutrient levels.   Spreading a good lawn pre-emergent on the lawn in the early spring will help reduce the production of new weeds in the yard too. Depending on grass type and area you live there are some great organic pre-emergents to fight weeds. Be very cautious on utilizing any WEED and FEED fertilizers as they contain chemicals that will kill most trees, plants and shrubs (regardless of the age of the tree). Atrozine is what is used in many weed and feed fertilizers and is being banned in many areas due to its toxicity on animals, trees and humans.

This is the recommended time to start planting Zinnia seeds, Gladiolas and Dahlias for cutting/indoor arrangements in the summer months. It is a good idea to separate plantings by 2 to 4 week intervals of to ensure a steady supply of blooms for flower arrangements.  Rose bushes can be safely planted in this season.  The cooler and usually damper spring weather will help the bushes develop a stronger root system, which will aid them in surviving through the summer heat and droughts. 

NOTE: This is usually the time the Cyclamen and Pansies will begin to die back. Pulling out pansies is usually the best approach as I have not had much luck with them returning the next year. However, Cyclamen will typically die off with the warmer temps and sunnier days and then return again around November (if they are left to go to seed and go dormant).

Summer (May - early June):
* Remove early Spring flowers that have gone by and set out/plant summer flowers, Perennials, bulbs and bushes
* Weed plant beds, trim off dried stems and leaves, mulch to conserve watering requirements.

Depending on the health of your lawn/soil, Memorial Day is the Second seasonal lawn fertilization. Again, the organic fertilizer is best as it helps build up your soils vs. just flushing it with lots of nitrogen.

Be sure to trim the old blooms off the Azaleas to allow for next years buds to start their growth ad extra mulch around the base to keep moisture through the dry summer ( is a good rule to be completed prior to June 1).

* Trim plants and deadhead new growth for full healthy plants
* Liquid Fertilize, Fish emulsion, bone meal or another dusting of organic fertilizer as needed
* Mark Iris blossom types/colors (on the plants leaves) to assure proper identification when splitting in fall 
 

"Try to resist trimming your wild flower seeds to early - should wait till after Indian Blankets, Texas Star's and daisies have bloomed and gone to seed.  Too early of the field cutting will reduce the next years flowers."

Late June to Early July (July 4^th) is the time for our next lawn Fertilizing. Typically by now we can increase the watering cycles and raise the mower decks for the lush green St. Augustine lawns.

 
Late summer revival (July and August):
* Re-mulch plants beds (as needed)
* Liquid Fertilize plants (Medina Has to Grow or Liquid Seaweed are good organic fertilizers)  Add a splash of Super Thrive to your fertilizer mix for a great hormone boost to your plants). 
* Weed plant beds, trim off dried stems and leaves - this is a great time to do some mid season trimming of Salvia, Lantana and other strong growing summer plants.
* Check the plants for summer insects and fungus   

• Trim plants and deadhead new growth for full healthy plants.
  
  Fall (September, October):
  * Seasonal trimming and pruning of flowers and perennial plants with additional fertilizer and Hormone treatment (Super Thrive)
  * Mulching, weeding, fluffing the bed to assure moisture can reach the roots, and removal of dried plant stems/leaves to assure continued late fall colors and plant hardiness
  * Split the Iris rhizomes and bulb plants to propagate the plant and thin dense growth areas as needed

• Split up and repot overgrown plants
  
  Wild flower seed planting season begins mid September through October in the Hill Country.  Typically want to have 10 – 15 days of damp cool weather for ideal germination of the wild flower seeds. 

• Shortly after Labor Day is the finial lawn fertilizing of the Season. Another good lawn Pre-Emergent treatment is recommended at this time to help prevent the growth of new weeds in your lawn – This treatment will help stop new weeds while the grass is dormant through the winter and dried seeds are blowing around with the fall/winter winds.

  
  
  Winterizing (November - December):
  * Winter pruning of roses
  * Seasonal pruning of flowers
  * Mulching and protecting frost sensitive plants and bulbs, replacing with winter hardy flowering plants/grasses
  * Set out/plant spring bulb plants and bushes
  * Trim all plants and shrubs as needed, Mulch the ones you cut back to help protect from frost.  Keep the plants moist during the winter freezes. 

• Early November is a great time to start setting out the Red and White Cyclamen for the approaching holidays. As long as the irrigation systems can continue to keep these healthy little flowering gems damp, they will continue to bloom through the approaching holiday seasons/New Year.

• Move potted plants that are not freeze hardy and store in sheds, garage or greenhouse – These are usually our Tropical Hibiscus, Bougainvillea and many of the southern ferns or other Tropicals that light protection will not keep from dieing off or prevent blooming next year.  
  * Organic Fertilize and/or add bone meal to bulbs and Iris rhizomes 

• Be sure to protect your Azalea around the base – too severe of a chill will prevent them from flowering in the Spring. Utilizing a good shredded pine mulch that will provide natural acid to your Azalea will help extend the life of your plants too The water and soil in the Texas Hill Country is very high in alkalinity.

"This is a great time for trimming bushes, and trees (on colder days).  Also a good (usually rainy) time for planting new trees and large bushes. "

January - February (into early March):
* Field trimming for better viewing of wild flowers 
* Assure outside plants are protected from frost/cold North winds
* Trim Crape Myrtles.  "Please do not top out your Crape Myrtles!" Dead heading the old blooms will help ensure more blooms next summer.
* Trim out some of the small spindly branches on the Crape Myrtle, and help the shrub become a tree. A good plan on trimming is to try to cut out branches that rub on another, as well as branches that are hanging on or too near the house, roof, gutters or blocking walk ways and drives.

"Cut back Tea, Grandma, and wild rose bushes - being sure to add a liquid glue to the ends to help prevent stem splitting and also keep bugs from boring into the exposed stocks" Typically January and February are the coldest months in the Hill Country and affords the tea roses the next two months of rest before the warm weather will really make them shoot up. Cutting the tea roses back to about 8 – 10” (saving the main canes and cutting out the smaller or dead canes). Be cautious about over mulching over the top of the cut canes if the irrigation systems are remaining on – you do not want the canes to remain damp or encourage mildew/fungus growth – or you might be fighting black spot next year!

The Knock Out Roses should only be trimmed for shape – not cut back to the ground. Clean out the excessive spindly branches under and inner growth, plus any dead or spindly canes within the shrub bush. Allowing ample air into the bush will help assure a happy Rose bush in Spring.

Additional Services: (available on a limited basis and pre-negotiated rates):
Weekly or Daily plant/flower garden maintenance and watering services 
 
Interior/Houseplant maintenance services available either continuous or for as needed vacation periods

Personalized holiday and specialty occasion garden maintenance services and special garden projects 
 
Additional Information:
Plants, debris, root, bulbs that are removed during maintenance services will become property and disposal responsibility of Hill Country Gardener unless otherwise discussed and agreed upon before services are rendered. 

All plant survival requires reasonable watering and care based on environmental conditions, it is the property owner/customer's responsibility to assure plants receive proper watering and care between Hill Country Gardener scheduled maintenance service calls. 

All Plants that are provided to customer/property owner by Hill Country Gardener will be billed/paid for at the time of installation and will become the property of customer/property owner unless otherwise agreed upon before services are rendered.   Plants not paid for at the time that services are rendered or invoiced will remain the property of Hill Country Gardener and may be removed at any time.